An Introduction to Surfing

When most people think of surfers, they conjure up an image of bronzed and toned beach-bums who spend their days calling each other "dude" and discussing "totally gnarly waves". Humorously, there is at least some truth to this stereotype. Throughout its long history, the sport of surfing has always brought with it a corresponding culture. This is probably because it is almost impossible to be indifferent when it comes to surfing. The sport does not create casual participants but, instead, followers who have felt, or relentlessly pursue, the awesome thrill of paddling towards the perfect wave and riding it flawlessly.

Surfers across the globe readily admit to being obsessed with their hobby.

Surfer

The most dedicated surfers would think nothing of narrowly escaping a serious spinal injury from a particularly perilous wipe-out on one day, and paddling back out to face another onslaught of waves on the next. There are numerous reports of surfers who have suffered serious injuries after being attacked by sharks, or have even lost limbs, only to return to the surf with barely a second thought.

Of course, not all surfing is so intense. The sport is enjoyed by many in relatively calm waters without significant risk. However, it is the select few daring enough to literally risk life and limb by participating in ‘big-wave’ or ‘extreme’ surfing who understand best the innate attraction of the sport; the thrill of being entirely at the mercy of nature, with nothing to protect you against the power of the ocean but your own skill.